Cathedral of Seville

March 8, 2010

Cathedral of Seville, front entrance

I took the trip from Madrid to Seville just on a whim. It’s Spain after all, I should go somewhere. While in Rome I found that I could make valuable trips to important sites just by taking a fast train for the day. This is why I took a day trip to Barcelona and now to Seville. I had no idea such a massive cathedral existed here in southern Spain. I’ve seen such things in other parts of Europe, but I did not expect it here. This is all my ignorance. A major problem I have, I can get myself to Europe, but I cannot do the research needed to know what I should see while I am here. To take a trip of this kind takes much more planning than I can give to it. For this reason I just wander around cities and towns and trying to find interesting sites. I know I miss majors things because of this. I actually missed the Uffizi Gallery the first time I went to Florence! This Cathedral of Seville is one such accidental find. I had no idea it was here, so it was a wonderful find. It is nice to see something old here in Spain. (It’s actually not that old as far as cathedrals go. It was started in 1401 and finished in 1507.) Madrid does not have a lot of old buildings.

The Cathedral of Seville is a Gothic cathedral built over the remains of a mosque. Evidence of the mosque, pieces of its foundation, can be seen in one of the cathedral’s courtyards. As far as I can tell there is no Islamic influence in the cathedral itself. This is a highly embellished cathedral and I am told (I took the audio tour.) that it is the third largest in the world, even larger than Hagia Sophia in Turkey. The inside seems complicated and undefined in terms of its spatial relationships. I expected to find something like I’ve seen in the Notre Dame or Chartres cathedrals. An entrance way opening to a large main altar with a large seating area in the middle, but saw none of that. It is therefore hard to understand how the cathedral “works” as a place of worship. It seems too divided up. There is no central space. In fact, I did not perceive the

Cathedral of Seville

building as living place of worship, although I know it is a functioning church. This is totally subjective, but always try to “feel” whether a building is still alive. This one does not. It feels more like a tourist site and a museum than a church. I felt no devotion here. Regardless, the ambience is breathtaking as you first step inside the cathedral. The high gothic vaults are powerful. I have never seen so many sub altars in a cathedral. They are lined up one after another almost 360° around the perimeter, this saint, that saint, this saint, that saint, and so on. Christopher Columbus’s body is held in one of the side areas of the cathedral. The Spanish take a lot of pride in Christopher Columbus is discovery of America. You see his statue in public squares all over Spain. And why not? He is a national hero. I spent over three hours in this cathedral and without a doubt this is one of the best cathedrals I have

Christopher Columbus's coffin

seen. Coming to a place like this is an awe inspiring experience. I feel that I have come to a place truly profound and my world has been permanently expanded as a result. The Cathedral of Seville is a must see.

Click here to see more photos

Cubism

Since I am on the point of artistic abstraction, I spent a lot of time today looking at a painting by Picasso called Man with a Clarinet. For hours I could not figure this painting out. I decided I would not leave the museum until I had achieved some understanding of Cubism. So here is what I think Cubism is: Cubism is an attempt to cast multi dimensions in two dimensions. It is a dynamic painting style. When I look at any object in real life I never see it from just one perspective and under just one lighting condition. It is never static and frozen in the way a photograph would portray it. Instead, real objects are always viewed in three dimensions and under varying light conditions. I see an object from the front, then from the sides and perhaps even from the back and the light varies from all perspectives. Viewing an object in real life is therefore never static. It is dynamic. Cubism attempts to look at an object from multi angles and under multi lighting conditions and then slices the image up into pieces and lays them down in two dimensions. I looked repeated at Picasso’s painting trying to make sense of it. I spent almost an hour studying it. I eventually went away and came back a few hours later and finally it hit me. I saw the man with the clarinet! It was like a burst of brilliance hit me. It is a great work of art! But it is highly abstract and it took a lot of time to break down my mental walls before I could understand the abstraction.

The Prado, Madrid

March 4, 2010

Dear Sabina,

Women at Window, Bartolome Murillo

Madrid is a clean and modern city. Everything functions well and the people are friendly, gentle and helpful. In some ways I am surprised by this. Before I came I had preconceived ideas about what Spain would be like. I thought it would be like Athens, which, in my view, is filthy, run down and fairly dysfunctional. I also had ideas of Mexico, but I hardly see graffiti or even many beggars on the streets of Madrid. Without a doubt this is a good place to visit for someone or a family who wants to “get their feet wet” traveling to a non-english speaking country. You feel safe here. Spain just works.

Surprisingly, Madrid does not appear to have an immigrant population as you see in London or Paris or most other major cities. I heard comments from some Madridians that their city is full of immigrants, but I certainly did not see it when compared to other places. I did not see any North Africans like Paris. I saw no burkas as one sees in London, the hotel cleaning staff are all Spanish/European, and the general population is overwhelmingly white and Spanish speaking on the streets, buses, trains and metro. In Madrid I never got the feeling that there are neighborhood that I should not be visiting, whereas in Paris I got this feeling a lot. Madrid, at least appears to not have the problems of France in this regard. I did, however, see evidence of Basque unrest in Barcelona, but that is another matter.

Boy, Bartolome Murillo

Architecturally Madrid is not an old city. Neither is Paris for that matter, even though Paris feels much older than Madrid. The buildings in Madrid are clean and the streets are wide and spacious. This is even the case in the so called older areas around the Place de Major. One thing that I especially like about Madrid is that its social life begins around 9 PM. This is when the restaurants really fill up. Even the museums and art galleries are open until 9 PM. I thought this was great because for me life also begins after 9PM. Madridians also have a slow time in the afternoon, the siesta, which also agrees with my afternoon nap schedule. This is a city I could easily fit into.

St. John, Alonso Cano

Madrid is the city of museums and the museum of all museums is the glorious Prado. It is easily on par with the major art museums of the world, yet my greatest complaint is that one can not take photos inside the Prado, nor do they allow any carry-in bags. Photo are allowed in the Louvre, the Musee d’Orsey in Paris, the National Galleries in London, the Metropolitain Museum in New York and even in Reina Sofia in Madrid, but sadly, not here in the Prado. Boo! I wonder if the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg allows photos? This is the next place I have in my sights. Not being able to take photos is a major loss. The way I work a museum is to photograph the paintings along with their name plates and then study what I saw afterwards. This way I can move faster and take in more of a collection. Most of my learning is done after I look at a collection, when I study my photos and conduct internet searches for each artist and their painting. It may seem like a crazy way to “conquer” a museum, but it works. In addition I always return at least a second time, which means I am much better prepared a second time. I noticed that the Prado sells a book illustrating the collection, however, I will not purchase it because that would mean that I will have to carry it around with me all day in the museum. They do not allow carry-in bags.

Regardless, the Prado is a spectacular art museum! It is clean, modern, well illuminated and organized. I cannot begin to describe what I saw today. It was worth coming to Madrid just to visit this one museum. I came across so many new artists. I had never heard of Alonso Cano, Bartolome Murillo or Mariano Fortuny. I never knew Goya had a black period and I was only vaguely aware of Diego Velazquez and El Greco. Now I want to learn more about these great artists. (Of course everything is available on the internet or in books, but for me, an artist or a painting only become truly “alive” after I have seen it.) Diego Velazquez is now part of me.

Viejo desnudo al sol Mariano Fortuny

The thing that makes the Prado different from other museums, at least in my mind, is that it is not full of the endless numbers of medieval Italian paintings that you see in the Louvre, the British Galleries, the Uffizi and just about everywhere else including even the Getty in California! I am tired of all those old altar pieces! The Prado’s emphasis is on Spanish painters. It is a refreshing collection and there is a lot of it and many of the paintings are huge. I spent a full day in the museum and I have only dented the collection. I get the feeling that Spain is somehow a little detached from the rest of Europe. It seems that Spanish culture is not well known outside of Spain. It is different here. Spain is like a secret within Europe and the Prado’s collection reflects this. It is a jewel.

My Space Vision

March 3, 2010

Dear Mr. President,

I met a lady two days ago in Los Angeles whose husband works for NASA. Some weeks ago you announced a new space policy for this country and I understood that you are canceling many parts of our existing program and turning them over to private companies. While I am not against change, and I can appreciate the need to adjust our space program to meet new conditions, I am concerned that what has happened is a substantial dismantling of our program instead of a strategic adjustment. This lady’s husband had been working on a new rocket lift system that would replace the aging shuttle program that is due to retire in a year. I understand this new propulsion system could also take us back to the moon and perhaps even to Mars and other places. I am told that this man’s whole research and development unit was dismantled and that he has already been shifted to defense.

If I understood you correctly, we are not exactly getting out of space, instead we are turning much of it over to the private sector. While I can understand that it may be time to allow the private development of routine matters, what concerns me is that I failed to hear a clearly defined plan of what we are going to be doing instead. If we are not doing routine matters like servicing the international space station or repairing space telescopes, then what are we going to be doing, especially at a time when the Chinese, the Indians and the Russians are rapidly developing their programs. It seems that we are diminishing our space program at a time when other countries are just becoming involved. This is lamentable.

I agree that it may be time to allow the commercialization of space in this country, but my concern is that even though we have spent untold trillions of dollars fighting wars and rebuilding other countries, things that may have been necessary, a nation that has no clearly defined vision for itself beyond just mundane necessities, is a nation that has condemned itself to mediocrity. I grew up watching this country put a man on the moon. I am one of those people who know exactly where they were when Neil Armstrong put his first foot on the surface of the moon, and I remember hearing his words. When John F. Kennedy gave us a decade to put a man on the moon he gave this country vision and he gave us hope that we could be more as a nation than what we were. In spite of the cold war, in spite of Vietnam, in spite of Watergate and everything else that has followed since, I have been inspired by our space program. Space research drives creativity and it forces us as people to reach beyond just our daily needs. How can we ever see beyond our daily problems if there is no push to go beyond those needs. Mr. President, why do I feel that you just killed my vision. Have we mismanaged our national priorities so much by fighting wars and policing the world, that we have lost our vision of space and therefore the future.

Mr. President, I voted for you because are an educated and articulate man whom I hoped could see beyond the basic needs of this world and who would not keep us endlessly fighting wars and policing the world with brute force. I voted for you to be a person who could lead us to a higher level. This is what education should be about. I am disappointed beyond measure to see what you have done to my space vision. But if I have missed something, if you have not killed our space program, then you have failed to give me a new vision of space. And I am not alone. This lady whose husband was just transferred from space to bombs also fails to have understood your space vision. You need to tell us again what your vision of space development is.

Image taken from: http://www.wallpaperpimper.com/wallpaper/download-wallpaper-Columbia_Shuttle_NASA-size-1024×768-id-120293.htm

Madrid, First Impressions

March 3, 2010

When I travel I think of myself as Le Flaneur, which translated is, “the stroller,” or “the walker.” The french poet and critic, Charles Baudelaire, first conceived of the flaneur as the gentleman city stroller who walks the streets of Paris with no particular purpose other than to observe and enjoy the life of the city. I like to move through the cities of the world with a similar frame of mind: to just observe the state of man and to appreciate life in all its forms. I never cease to be amazed how varied the human mind is, how it can create so many solutions to the same problem. I saw an ad in London’s Heathrow airport which read: The more you look at the world, the more you recognize that people value the same things, but in different ways. How true this is! Heathrow is a truly amazing place. Nowhere can you find so many people from so many places all intermingling. There is no language that is not spoken there. I always enjoy moving through this transit point.

Today I had little time to “flaneur” my way through Heathrow. I had only an hour and a half to change terminals and pass through security one more time. As it turned out I caught my Madrid flight, but my bags did not. When I arrived in Madrid I discovered that my luggage was still in London, which meant I have no bed clothes or fresh clothes for following day. The hotel gave me a basic traveler’s pack, tooth brush, comb, razor kit, and so on. I was happy.

Compared to LAX, Madrid’s airport is a beautiful architectural monument. It has vaulting ceilings full of color. Surely an airport is the face of a country, so when I think of how ugly and decrepit the Los Angeles airport is, I am embarrassed. Why would a major city like Los Angeles not have something nicer to show the world? I could have taken the metro to my hotel in downtown Madrid, but it was already dark and I just did not feel like trying to negotiate the metro after such a long day of travel. I took a taxi to my hotel, 22 Euros. Cheap! Compared to the rest of Europe, Spain is a bargain.

My God, the streets of Madrid are wide! I generally find that unappealing, and yet I can see that they have planted endless numbers of trees along the boulevards. I am sure it is gorgeous in the spring, summer and fall, but at this time of the year it looks drab. That first evening I took a walk to get my bearings and I had a little meal and tried out an ATM. I always worry that I will not be able to access money when I come to a new country, but as it turns out two of my four credit cards worked so I had access to local cash. I am happy: I am here safely, I have a nice room and my health is good. Let the adventure begin. Le Flaneur will take to the streets of Madrid tomorrow.

Recording Details

March 2, 2010 LAX (In transit to Madrid)

Shukavak in study mode

Here is something I learned years ago when I did my doctoral work in Canada. At that time I was studying how old world Hinduism changed as it came into contact with the British first arriving in India during the 18th and 19th centuries. In those days I was fortunate enough to make a unique discovery. I found a hand written manuscript of an autobiography written by a Bengali gentleman who worked for the British Raj as a magistrate during the early days of British rule. I found this manuscript at his ancestral home in a village north of Kolkata (Calcutta). What made the document so interesting was not just the biographical information it contained, but all the details of life in Calcutta during the latter half of the 19th century. He described how the telegraph first arrived in Bengal, how gas street lighting affected life in Calcutta, how rail trolley-service first started, how the region was ravaged by cholera, what happen during the 1857 rebellion in Kolkata, and so many other details that were fascinating for me, a reader removed by almost 175 years and in a culture totally removed from what this gentleman was living. As I read this document each page was like a gold mine of information describing a world that was completely different than my own. In this way I learned the importance of recording information that may seem ordinary and uninteresting, but will, with the passing of time, become invaluable. That is why I have created this site and why I write these notes. I have no hesitation in recording information that may one day become another gold mine of information about the life and times in which I live. I hope you enjoy these notes created during my recent trip to Spain.

Montreal

July 29, 2010

La Basilique Notre-Dame

Montreal is all about being French in an English speaking universe. Montreal and Toronto are the two largest cities in Canada. They are both on the Great Lakes waterway and they are only about 750 kilometers apart, and yet they are worlds away from each other. Canada has two official languages, English and French, and if you recall, I mentioned that almost every language on earth can heard on the streets of Toronto; that is, except one, French. This says much about the French and English in Canada.

One trip on the subway in Toronto or one stroll down the main thoroughfare and you can easily see there is no single racial majority in Toronto, but do the same in Montreal and you will immediately see that Montreal is overwhelmingly white and French. The immigrant populations of Toronto do not exist in Montreal to the same extent as they do in Toronto, nor are the streets packed the same way, nor does the economy seem to be booming. Montreal is in disrepair. I’ve never seen so many broken roads and fixes in a Canadian city. In fact Toronto and Montreal remind me of London and Paris respectively. London is cosmopolitan and “modern” whereas Paris is ethnic and a decade behind the times. You can find my notes comparing these two cities else where on this site.

Way to the Old Port

What the French in Canada have chosen to do is to have French culture including its language over economic vitality. The immigrant communities choose not the live in Montreal because there is less money to be made. They choose Toronto or almost anywhere else that is English over Montreal or I suspect anywhere else in Quebec. And so Montreal is decidedly French speaking and white. It is also highly parochial, just like Paris. If you want French culture in Canada you go to Quebec, period. Your standard of living will be less and your children’s future will be restricted, but you will have French culture. Recently I was in New Orleans, which of course is another French area of North America.

Old Town Montreal

Unfortunately, not a word of French is spoken in New Orleans today. The airport and other civic places have French names, the streets have French names and much of the architecture is French, but no one speaks French. This is because the French in Louisiana chose not to, or could not mandate the French language; so they were assimilated into the melting pot called America. The French in Canada, having more history and more critical mass, could see this coming and so fought to the point of terrorism and near secession from the rest of the country to have special rights within Canada. They brought the country to the brink of either breaking apart or becoming a bilingual nation. In the end Canada chose to be bilingual and to give Quebec special status within the federation. The French in Canada won their fight. This is recent history which happened during the late 1960s and 70s and even into the 1980s. I grew up in English Canada experiencing all of this. It was therefore odd for me to walk down Rene Levesque Boulevard in downtown Montreal.

I remember him being considered a terrorist in English Canada. In Quebec he is a national hero. For my part I am happy that Canada is a bilingual nation and that Quebec is a distinct region within Canada. It seems the Quebecois are also happy with their decision, but there are consequences to all actions and it shows.

Walk along the boarwalk of the Old Port

The upside to the French in Canada deciding to chose French culture over full integration into the rest of Canada is that French Canada has a special charm that cannot be found anywhere else is North America. Old town Montreal, including La Basilique Notre-Dame, and the old port are huge tourist areas. I was not impressed with Montreal as a whole until I discovered these areas of the city. And now, having been in old town Montreal, I feel I’ve actually been somewhere. When you travel it’s important to go somewhere! I had the greatest time sitting in a cafe in the old port of Montreal speaking french with a waitress while watching the world go by. Just like Paris!

This is the charm of Montreal.

Musing on Art

October 21, 2009 Maui

Delphi, Greece

There are places in this world that I call “mythological zones,” and by this, I mean places where the natural beauty of the land is so compelling and so overpowering that it opens pathways in my mind to an altered state of awareness. The island of Maui in Hawaii, Delphi and Santorini in Greece, and even my home in the high desert of Southern California are such places.

The ancient Sanskrit poet, Kalidasa, has a delightful poem in which a love- sick Yaksha, a kind of spirit being, is exiled to the mountains of southern India for neglecting his duty to his master, Kubera. In exile, this Yaksha yearns to be with his lover, and so he talks to the clouds and asks them to travel back to his home in the Himalayas and carry a message of love to his wife. Hence, the name of the poem, The Cloud Messenger. Kalidasa’s poem is an exquisite work that describes the beauty of nature and the inner feelings of this exiled Yaksha. Unfortunately, I had always thought of this poem, and other works of literature, as just something born from the fanciful imagination of its author. I did not take them seriously. Then one day, as I sat in a field on the island of Maui, in an environment similar to the Yaksha’s exile, I suddenly became overtaken by the beauty of this land, with its volcanoes and storm clouds, and its ocean and crashing surf. As I sat in this field, surrounded by green grass and wild flowers, I began to feel myself absorbed by this

Megha Duta

natural beauty. Suddenly, as if the gods had opened their eyes and seen me, the world became “alive.” The grass “sang” for me and the flowers “smiled” at me; in effect I could “talk with the gods!” I had entered, what I call, for lack of a better term, a state of “wonder,” perhaps how a child sees the world; and at that moment I remembered Kalidasa’s poem and understood how his inspiration was possible. He must have been in his own state of wonder when he wrote The Cloud Messenger. It occurred to me that this creative state must be the source of a lot of literature and art, and even music.

Mostly I live in a “normal” state of awareness, but every so often, when the conditions are right, I slip into this special state, which I think is the source of creative genius. Had I not been forced to wait in Maui for a few extra hours (my flight to Los Angeles was not until late in the evening and my hotel room had expired), had I not veered off the regular road and found this quiet field, in other words, had I not left the tourist world, I surely would have missed seeing this magical side of Maui. Visitors come to this wonderful island from all over the world, and no doubt they appreciate its beauty and enjoy its delights, but I wonder how many of them step beyond the rational world of modern tourism and experience the Maui that I had seen, the mythological Maui. My vision in Maui had occurred purely by accident.

So I question whether there are ways to recreate this state at will. If the beauty of nature or even a Sanskrit poem can evoke a change of awareness, why not a painting, a sculpture, or even music? Why couldn’t all forms of art act as “doorways” to new states of awareness?

There is a song entitled Northern Lights by a contemporary music group, Enigma. What

Northern Lights

makes this song beautiful is that simply through sound, the music accurately depicts how the northern lights look and how they act. It is uncanny how perfectly this music represents these lights and how, just by hearing this music, it evokes the same state of awareness I experienced as a youth when I used to see these lights on a cold winter night in Canada. In those days I did not articulate my feelings as I am now, but seeing the lights effected a change of awareness, just like Maui, and at times the lights became so distinct and so powerful they put me in touch, so to speak, with the “aurora gods.” In other words, through this music, sound functions as a representation of the actual physical event, which in turn evokes the same change in awareness as the original event. So again I ask, if this can occur with music, then why not with paintings, sculpture, literature and other forms of art? After all, clouds and mountains and northern lights, or any other physical event, when reduced to their essence, is simply light entering the human brain through the eyes. Similarly, thunder or music is sound entering the brain through the ears, paintings are colors and textures on canvas that become light, and great works of literature are just dots on paper or pixels on a computer screen that also become light that enter the brain through the ears. Essentially all of these things are input into the human brain through the senses. Ultimately it is the human mind that processes this information and makes the determination, “This is beauty,” “This is art,” “This makes me feel creative.”

But not all vistas of nature, not all literature, not all paintings, and not all music evoke the same changes of consciousness in everyone. One person’s art is another person’s non art. The perception of beauty and the change of awareness that art can induce is highly subjective. How I respond to Maui or the northern lights is conditioned by who I am. Had I not seen the aurora borealis as a youth, I may not have responded to the music in the way I did. Had I not grown up with an appreciation of pristine wilderness, seeing it in northern Canada, I may not have been receptive to the pristine tropical wilderness of Maui.

And yet certain natural vistas or pieces of art or literature or music are universally accepted as manifestation of beauty. These works of art, the Mona Lisa for example, or certain vistas of natural landscape, the Grand Canyon in Colorado, for example, transcend individual subjectivity and cultural boundaries and are accepted by people in general as universal manifestations of beauty. And yet, these things can also be reduced simply to sensory input within the human brain. Ultimately, it is the human mind that responds to this input. Perhaps there are “universals,” archetypes, to use Jung’s terminology, within the human mind that respond to certain external “triggers,” and it is these triggers that we call the art. Perhaps good art somehow evokes or activates these universals; and the more precisely these universals are evoked, the more we judge the these triggers, the paint strokes, the colors, the sounds, the pixels, etc to be good art. What constitutes good art, therefore, is how precisely a particular painting, a piece of music, or a work of literature evokes these universals.

I wonder if it is possible to enter this creative state of awareness at will? Certainly travel to places like Maui or Delphi can induce this state, and certainly strong emotions, love or sadness, can induce this state. I know that dedication to a religious or political cause, or even certain drugs can open the mind to this state, but can art also function as a doorway into this creative mode of awareness? Of course the answer is yes. Unfortunately I used to think of art as just something “nice” to look at, but that it had little value beyond some form of artistic entertainment. I would often find myself in an art gallery filing passed the paintings one by one as if I was working through a check-list of items. Yet each one of these paintings took weeks, months and often years to produce. Each one is a reflection of the artist’s consciousness and creative perspective. I was missing so much by not understanding the power of art. I now think it is incumbent on me as a viewer to give more than just a “check-list” recognition to a serious work of art. This is not to suggest that I have to respond to every painting, every sculpture, every work of literature or score of music. Art remains subjective, but at least, for the pieces that I do choose to view, I now see the creative potential that is contained within each work. I now look at art in a new way and better understand the power of art to evoke this change in awareness.

So I wonder, if I go to galleries and take time to absorb in detail a few works of good art, if I fill my home with a few famous paintings, even as reproductions, if I listen to more good music, if I give myself an aesthetic education by studying art and music, in other words, if I fill my world with more art and beauty, could this have a positive influence on my ability to be more creative? Could I write my own version of Kali Dasa’s Cloud Messenger?

The Magic of Nights

Wednesday July 15, 2009

You can hardly imagine how hot and sun-drenched the desert is at this time of the year; in fact, the heat is so brutal and so relentless it draws the very life out of you. I look upon the sun as a demon during this season. But the nights, oh God, I live for the nights! I willingly accept the heat of the day just for the coolness of the nights. The moment the sun slips behind that final hill, magic descends upon the land and you can almost hear the cry of relief from all of creation as night begins to unfold. The sky, on this moonless night, is ablaze in starlight beauty. The milky way, which is never seen in the city, is a radiant paint stoke across the sky, and as I write this, I am sitting on my porch swing looking out towards the east. From this vantage point I can see for miles into the night and there is almost total darkness except for a few of my neighbor’s distant lights. The desert has an unwritten law that no one will keep outdoor lights and so it takes a special breed of person to live here without the amenities of city life. I hear crickets, the occasional bark of a dog, and the pitched howl of the night runners, coyotes, as they prepare for their nightly hunt. I can also hear the rustling and the jostling of our horses just below where I am sitting as they go about their nightly chores. The sound is music to my ears and want to stay here for hours and not miss a single moment of this magical time, yet I struggle to stay awake; my energy has been robbed from me by the sun and the heat of the day.

Photograph by Malati Marvin 2011