Train to Barcelona

March 3, 2010

I got up early this morning (5:30am) and caught a taxi from my hotel to the main train station, the Atocha, in downtown Madird. My train departure was scheduled for 7:20am. Boarding a train in Spain is quick and easy so long as you have ticket, even though you must have your bags scanned and you must pass through security. The Spanish have made the process extremely efficient. No other place in Europe checks your bags as you board a train. In spite of the security you only need be in the station 15 minutes before your train. It had been raining most of the night so everything is wet and cold, but once inside my carriage everything is warm, clean, and modern. Train travel in Europe is the best way to get from one place to the other. This train will attain speeds exceeding 340 km/h. Yet you hardly feel that you moving! There is nothing in the US like this. We are far behind Europe in many ways, yet we pride ourselves as being advanced. It is just not true.

The Spanish countryside between Madrid and Barcelona is trim and neat. Once outside of Madrid the countryside is snow covered, but as you get towards Barcelona the snow slowly vanishes and the countryside becomes mountainous and even green! What a change. The green color reminds me of Southern California in winter. One thing I note over and over, the countryside of Spain and all of the Europe that I have seen is never plastered with bill boards. The Spanish countryside is clean and prosperous. People in America do not realize just how much their mental peace is affected by the visual pollution created by outdoor bill boards. Such things are terrible.

Train travel always puts me into a contemplative mood. Perhaps it is the rocking sensation, although this high speed train is absolutely motionless. Today I am thinking about the paintings I have been seeing. Madrid is at least as good as Paris and London for paintings. As I travel from gallery to gallery throughout Europe–the Louvre, the Uffizi, the National Galleries, and now the Prado and Reina Sofia and other places in Madrid–I am gradually building up my range of experience in art. What a blessing this is. I sometimes think of myself as the Flaneur to the world. I am of course thinking the French poet and art critic Charles Baudelaire who fashioned himself as Le Flaneur de Paris, the city stroller of Paris. My journey through the museums and art galleries of Europe, through the cathedrals and churches of the Western world, and through the streets and cafes of so many major cities is my attempt to study life in all its facets and from as many points of view as possible. Baudelaire could walk the streets of Paris and London of 150 years ago, but in my times I have the luxury of traversing the countries and cities of the whole world. This is a huge blessing.

When I travel I feel absolutely free and happy. Sitting in this train and speeding through the Spanish countryside towards the Mediterranean coast is a dream some true. I am at peace.

Before a Trip

March 3, 2010, Riverside

Tomorrow I begin my trip to Spain. I have not been outside of this country for about a year and a half–since the summer of 2008–so now I begin another adventure. Fear stopped me traveling last year. With the change in the economy the whole world has been holding its breath and I too fell under this negative influence. Now I have finally recovered my courage and I am ready to travel after so many months. My flight leaves from Los Angeles at about 8:30 in the evening and goes to London where I will transfer to another flight that goes to Madrid. I will arrive in Madrid about 24 hours after I leave. The actual flying time is about 14 hours, but since there is a nine hour time zone shift I will lose a whole day in travel. I love to fly and the second I step into an airport I get a rush of adrenaline. I get excited seeing people from all over the world and hearing different languages and seeing different forms of dress. Once I am on a jet, and I feel the plane leaving the ground, I leave my worries and responsibilities behind. I become free and I enter into a state of delight and adventure!

 

This trip is different from my last European trip. At that time I was away for almost three weeks and traveled to four countries, Britain, France, Greece and Turkey. This is just a short eight day trip where I will spend time in only one country, Spain. I am also traveling in the late winter, whereas my last trip was in the summer. This trip is therefore, an experiment, one week, one country and during the “off” season. In the past most of my trips have been about two weeks in length, which is about my limit of travel tolerance. After two weeks I just want to go home. It may turn out that an eight day trip is too short. We shall see. Right now I am feeling anxious. I call this “travel stage-fright” and it always happens to me just before a major trip, but I know that once I get going, this anxiety will vanish and I will quickly fall into my travel mode. Part of my anxiety arises from the fact that I know virtually no Spanish, but then again I have been to many countries where I know nothing of the language or even the writing system. Greece and Turkey were two good cases in point. At least in Spain I will be able to follow the alphabet. This trip is also based on my past experience that I should never travel on a Monday, which is my “hangover day” and that I should give myself a full two days to recover after the trip. In the past I have always squeezed every second of free time into travel time, but I have learned this is a big mistake.

Atocha

Spain Madrid, March 5, 2010

I did not wake up until 10 AM and by the time I showered, had breakfast and consulted with the concierge, it was noon, but Madrid only seems to get going by that time. I have never seen a city that opens so late and stays up so so long, and I don’t mean just bars, every museum and art gallery is open till 9PM, and restaurants only start filling up after 10, for food, not just drink! One never has to worry about sleeping late while in Madrid. Whether this is true for the rest of the country, I have no idea, but I like it.

Atocha Train Station, Madrid

Once I did get going my first trip was to the train station to buy a ticket for Barcelona. However, being in a foreign country for the first time means that even buying something as simple as a train ticket is not an easy matter. One first has to know where the station is and even how to use a bus. Yes, I could have easily taken a taxis from my English enclave, the hotel, but I always insist on doing things the indigenous way. I want to be with the people. This is where one’s concierge is extremely important, you at least get a directed push out the hotel door and you are armed with at least some hint of where to go and what to do. After that you are on your own.

Madrid’s main train station is called Atocha, and what a place it is! This is the station that

Atocha Train Bombing 2004

was bombed in 2004 just before the Spanish elections. This is the place that forced Spain out of Iraq and drove a wedge between active Spanish support for American actions against Sadam Husain. It is an eery feeling to be in a place that was in the grip of death and destruction just a few years before. A hundred and ninety-one people died and over 1800 were wounded on that day, and here I was! But what got me the most about being here is that Madrid does not look like “some other place.” Athens, Rome and even Paris look like that other place and so you might expect, a bomb blast, but not here. Madrid and the Atocha, looks too modern, too much like home, for something of this magnitude to have happened.

Atocha Train Station Inside

The Atocha is a huge glass structure filled with shops, cafes and even art galleries nestled amongst trees, ponds and running brooks. It is almost a botanical garden. There is nothing like this I have seen before. And it is clean and absolutely efficient. One can arrive here, pass through security, and be on a train within fifteen minutes, if one has a ticket. For me it was another story. Not a lot of English is spoken in Spain, unlike the rest of Europe, so it took over an hour just to find an English speaking ticketing agent, but once I did, I booked two trips, one to Barcelona and one to Seville. The girl at the ticketing counter herself was from Seville and so she even made a personal phone call for me to check if the day I was traveling on was a good day for museums. That would never happen in the states! She also talked about how Madrid was so cosmopolitan

Puerta de Atocha

and fast paced, but to me it is like a village, a very nice village, and I reaffirm my opinion that Madrid is a monoculture. Relatively speaking, this is a white Spanish speaking world, without a large immigrant population compared to London or Paris. At the Atocha I spent the whole day in downtown Madrid and saw few immigrants. Madrid is a solely Spanish world unlike the rest of Europe.

 

Los Angeles to Madrid

March 2, 2010

I have just arrived at the international airport in Los Angeles. I got here about 4:30PM even though my flight is not till 8:30PM. I am flying British Airways. That is an hour earlier than is requested by the airlines and probably about two hours earlier than necessary, but traffic in Los Angeles can be fierce at this time of the day and I am driving from a long distance. I live about a 100 kms from the airport. I must admit that I am a little extreme when it comes to these matters, so I would rather wait in the airport knowing that I am here early than wait till the last minute and then sit and fume in rush hour traffic. One thing I have learned about traveling, always give myself more time than expected and always have contingencies built into my travel plans. This makes travel enjoyable and less stressful. I also leave my car at a valet where they store it, wash it, refuel it and bring it to me when I return. This way I am not bothering other people for rides and besides there is nothing nicer than to return to one’s own car, all clean and ready to go after a long trip. It is a good way to travel.

One thing that I notice about American airports: there are still no military police patrolling the airports. I hardly see guns and when I do see them it is usually just a pistol equipped policeman. All over Europe one sees young soldiers, usually “kids” with machine guns walking the floors at airports and train stations. One never sees that here. Security in America is still “hidden.” Occasionally I will see a bomb sniffing dog. These are usually small beagle dogs sniffing for drugs or bombs. In France you see ferocious looking German Shepherds on patrol. Here the dogs are still “cute and cuddly.” I have no doubt that behind the scenes there is an army waiting to descend on any American airport in case of an emergency. Security is becoming tighter and tighter these days. Every incident edges us closer and closer to bigger guns and bigger dogs. No doubt, that as the world becomes flatter, the troubles of far away places become closer. Pity.

Why I Travel: Prelude to Spain

March, 7, 2010 Madrid, Spain

Stonehenge

When you have stood under the ceiling in the Sistine Chapel and looked up at Michelangelo’s magnificent fresco, the hands of God and man, when you have stood atop the Acropolis and marveled at the beauty of its architecture, when you have stood in Notre Dame Cathedral and heard the organ play a thundering Bach fugue, when you have stood on the Salisbury plain at sunset and seen the ancient ruins of Stonehenge; you become changed as a person. You expand your mind and emotions and you become lifted away from the daily struggle of simply living. People travel for many reasons, for pleasure, for business, for romance; who can count the reasons? But in the end travel moves you beyond yourself and allows you to see other possibilities and to have bigger dreams. Travel is about the nourishment of the soul. This is why I travel.

Concert in Notre Dame

Tuesday July 29, 2008

Last evening (Monday) I attended a concert in the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. What a wonderful experience! When I think that I was sitting in this thousand year old cathedral, built at the time of Madhvacharya, my heart skips a beat. This cathedral has seen the likes of Christopher Columbus, Louis the XIV, the Sun King, and many many earlier kings. It has seen the coronation of Napoleon and has been walked through by Nelson, Einstein, Churchill, Gandhi and every other famous person on this planet, for no ones comes to Paris without visiting Notre Dame. And what famous person has not been to Paris? So to sit within this venerable and mighty building and to listen to its ancient pipe organ thundering away accompanied by horns, drums, violins and cellos, is a tremendous honor and a once in a lifetime experience. I am humbled.

 

Movie clip of the concert can be viewed here: http://gallery.me.com/shukavak#100000

Someone Talk to Me!

Friday, July 21, 2006 11:14:42 PM

Yesterday was my fourth day in Paris and I am continuing to improve my french. I am getting the much needed street practice and I am learning to overcome my fear of speaking. By street practice I mean real french as it is spoken in cafes, government offices, hotel lobbies, churches, and so on. All I usually hear are the lesson on my mp3 player or what Steve speaks to me. I have just heard words in a lesson, but I am in fear that if I use them others will not understand, but when I do use the words and the people do understand, I am delighted! This absolutely amazes me. Language actually works. Then from the other perspective I hear words, which at first I do not understand and then I remember, “Yes,I know that word! I have heard that word in one of my lessons.” This is the first time I am hearing the word in a real conversation and it has the effect of a light going on in my head. This is a exciting experience.

Anna, I do not mind if you consider me to be a fool because I am so easily pleased. The simple act of speaking a language is a cosmic experience for me. There are even times when I “get into it” so much that the words start to flow out of me without conscious thought, and I can even understand what I am saying. I am actually thinking in French. Wow! Back home I am close to finishing my spoken French course, and once that is done I plan to concentrate on the written language. My goal is to read book one of Harry Potter. As far as spoken French is concerned the only thing that can be done at this point is more street practice which means more coming to France, more sitting in cafes, more going to stores and more just being with the French. When I am standing in line to buy groceries, for example, I always try to get a conversation going with the ladies in front or behind me. I might says something like, “Bon jour madan, je suis Americain de Los Angeles au California. J’ ai neuf enfants, quatre garcons et cinq filles! Combien d’ efant avez-vous”? This usually gets somebody talking. Idiotic American, but I could careless what they think of me, just as long as they talk to me. While I am here in Paris if I did nothing more that simply talk to housewives in the grocery line I will be happy.

Le Musee D’ Orsay

Thursday, July 20, 2006 4:54:57 PM

Painting is a jeu d’esprit.*

Chere Anna,

After Notre Damn I stopped at the places shown by my guide the day before to buy supplies and then I returned to my hotel for some relaxation and a nap. Shooting photography in the morning and evening, and taking a nap in between is a great idea, but I was never able to do it. There were always too many other things to do. I ended up sitting in the hotel lobby going online and watching the people who entered the hotel. This place is frequented by American Airlines staff and Japanese businessmen. I can not tell you how much I appreciate being in a first class hotel. Traveling is hard, but having a descent hotel is essential and makes a hard trip a pleasure. The concierge is an indispensable part of my travel team. From the concierge I learn so much about the place I am staying and I get help with all kinds of things, taxis reservations, ticket changes, eating and so much more. They will even tolerate my french and teach me things.

Around 4 PM I again headed out, this time, for Le Musee D’ Orsay to see some of the French impressionism that I have been studying. Last year, when I went through the Louvre I was appalled by how much I did not know about what I was looking at. You walk through rooms and rooms and rooms of ‘”stuff,” but without some knowledge you have no idea of what you are looking at. I decided at that time that I will become knowledgeable about something and then go and see it. So this is what my trip to D’ Orsay was all about. I had purchased a DVD course on 19th French Impressionism. Oh, you can not imagine my delight to actually see some of the very paintings by Manet, Monet and others that I have seen on DVD and in books! I photographed as much as I could so that I had a personal record of the D’ Orsay collection and in the end I spent about 5 hours going through this museum. Although images of the collection are available on the internet and in art books, in fact one really has no need to actually travel to D’ Orsay or any other place, there is a special thrill in actually seeing the original. Over the coming months I will spend more time reviewing impressionism and so I wanted to be able to review back to my personal photographs of this collection. So I am far from done when it comes to this kind of art.

After that I headed back to a place near the Louvre where I had taken some photos the day before. I liked my composition and so I decide to return to retake the shots. Since my last trip I have greatly improved my knowledge of photography and the use of my camera, so I wanted to retake the shots in a special way. I had two hours to wait until the sun was setting and the light was right so I went to a restaurant and dinned on French cuisine. Anna, I think it is worth coming to Paris just to sit in the cafes eat, drink and watch the world go by. After my long walk through the museum and with all the standing looking at paintings it was such a relief to sit in this cafe. I spoke as much french to my waiter as I could. He was used to dealing with tourists who never try to speak french beyond bonjour and merci and so he gave me special attention. I am so happy because I am actually speaking french in a meaningful way on this trip. Last time I tried my best but I could never keep it going for more than a sentence or two. Now I can actually hold simple conversations. All my training has been worth it and I am encouraged to learn more.

Finally, the sun moved into position and I went to where my photo shoot was to take place, but still the light was not right so I had to wait another half an hour. During that time I sat down and worked on another writing installment. It does not matter where I am, in the airport, in a plane, on a train, or in a cafe, I can always take out paper and pen and continue my story. Finally the light was just right and I began to take my shots. I took about 30 photos out of which I kept three as the final version. You can see the results. I am very happy. This time I am not just taking photos, but I am trying my best to compose shots. This, of course, takes a lot of time, but for me it is worth it. I am having fun! This is Shuka on vacation. 🙂